Kitesurf Raceboard Gybing

In my second technique feature we are looking at Gybing a raceboard. You can also see in the video some downwind technique and pre start maneuvers which we will look at in more detail soon.

The key to making a Gybe on any type of board is speed and commitment, with the difference to carving round on a twinnie compared to a directional, simply being foot/body position and swapping your feet. The only real change gybing a race board compared to a surf board is that you will probably be using a bigger kite meaning you have to downloop where as when it’s windy on a small kite, you can simply turn the kite before the carve and it flies fast enough to stay in front of you, while a big kite is too slow and you will end up underneath it, making the kite fall out of the sky.

There is also the added board width to deal with, which means a wider stance and more rail pressure, but still the same amount of commitment.

Most riders have a preferred foot forward and many including myself will always switch feet first one way and after the other. Whichever way you prefer, the move is essentially the same, just swapping the feet first or at the end.

Here we look at the Carving Gybe and in the sequence I am changing my feet after. We will be looking at the Slam Gybe another time along with the duck tack, aerial tack & aerial gybe.

·         Approach at speed, on a broard reach, making sure the kite is powered at 45 degrees and you are going as fast and downwind as possible

·         Gently bring kite up towards 11.30 (or 12.30) stepping out of the back strap placing foot as far back and onto the leeward rail as possible ( if you change your feet first, then this is when you do it, as below)

·         Bring centre of gravity low by bending knees, pull hard on front hand to initiate downloop of kite and put weight onto leeward rail

·         Continue to put all your pressure onto leeward rail while driving through front foot with your head up and forward looking in direction of travel

·         Keep pulling the kite through the turn and as you come just pass dead downwind start to gradually level the board off by gently standing up

·         As the kite starts to climb up the new side continue to straighten knees and open shoulders up towards front of board

·         As kite come up on new side to 1 (or 11), bring your backfoot forward into new strap (on a surfboard bring your foot forward to make a triangle as you twist your old front foot from the strap. On a raceboard you still make this shape but with your heels well apart)

·         Dive the kite hard bringing the power on while driving through the front foot and moving outboard.

Common problems

·         Getting pulled off sideways as you go into carve-

Make sure to bear off far enough before you start to carve and keep the speed up

·         Lines going slack and kite falling-

Move the kite earlier and before you initiate the carve with the board

·         Wobbling off during feet change-

Keep your head up, eyes forward and make sure the kite is high

·         Losing speed on exit-

Make sure you have max speed on entry and be aggressive with the kite, while flattening the board off just after dead downwind

·         Getting pulled off at end-

Ensure you start to flatten board off just after dead downwind to keep speed and avoid turning too far into the wind

Whichever board you are performing a Carve Gybe on, the key points remain the same-

Speed on Entry, Commitment through the turn, Speed on exit. If you have all of these dialled, then you will be able to look back and smile at your perfect arch left in the water as you speed away.

Remember the key to success is- commitment, positive attitude and practise.